28 April 2025 Monday
From Sleepless to Sacred: A Rainy Escape to Miyajima Island
Not many night trains in Japan these days.
From what I could find (with my not-so-fluent Japanese), there are only two left—and both start in Tokyo. So, when we needed to get from Nagoya to Hiroshima, we had to improvise. The shinkansen would’ve been fast, sure—but pricey. Golden Week didn’t help either: accommodation was tight, and trains were booking out fast.
So… night bus it was.
Chasing Sleep on a Budget: Night Bus from Nagoya to Hiroshima
Now, this wasn’t one of those plush, reclining-seat buses. It had tiny curtains between seats—kind of adorable, really, and so Japanese. My seatmate? Fully kitted out. For two hours, he didn’t stop snacking. Like a full snack parade happening next to me while I tried to sleep in an upright seat.
Grey Skies and Oysters: Arriving in Miyajima
We rolled into Hiroshima early, greeted by grey skies and light rain. Breakfast at the station helped wake us up, and soon we were on a train and ferry heading for Miyajima—that little island just an hour from Hiroshima, famous for the floating torii gate that seems to hover on water during high tide.
Despite the drizzle, the island had its charm turned all the way up. Our host was lovely—took our luggage early and even gave us an umbrella. We wandered around, snacking on oysters and sweet treats. The streets were lined with tiny shops and cheerful chatter, mostly from locals, school groups, and families.
Curious Companions: Miyajima’s Free-Roaming Deer
And then, the deer.
They just… walk around. Everywhere. By the shops, the beach, even near the shrine. Unlike Nara, you’re not supposed to feed them, but they still stroll right up, looking curious (and slightly hopeful).
Between Rain Showers and Sacred Flames: Hiking Mount Misen
We stopped briefly at Itsukushima Shrine, caught glimpses of the torii gate between rain showers, then tackled Mount Misen. Was it the rain? The sleepless night? Either way, that hike was no joke. But the reward? A peek at the “Undying Flame” in Reikado Hall—a fire that’s been burning for over 1,200 years. That flame even inspired the Flame of Peace in Hiroshima’s Peace Park. Pretty wild, right?
It is not an easy hike though, you may want to consider whether you are up for the hike, if you are here just for the view.
Trading Sunset for Silence: A Night on the Island
By sunset, we were supposed to head back out to catch the Itsukushima Shrine torii gate in the evening glow… but we just couldn’t leave our cozy guesthouse. Private onsen, creaky wooden floors, soft lighting—it felt like stepping back in time. So we stayed in, soaked, and let the island’s quiet magic wrap around us.
🌿 Travel Tips for Miyajima:
📅 Avoid Golden Week (if you can):
It gets crowded, and prices jump for both transport and accommodation.
🚌 Consider the night bus—but know what you’re in for:
It’s not luxurious, but it saves money and time. Bring a neck pillow and snacks.
☔ Rain? Don’t worry:
Miyajima is beautiful even in the drizzle. Just pack a light raincoat or grab a conbini umbrella.
🦌 Don’t feed the deer:
They’re not like the ones in Nara. Admire them, but don’t share your food.
🕯️ Visit Reikado Hall on Mount Misen:
Even if the hike feels hard, the history of the “Undying Flame” makes it worth it.
🏠 Stay overnight:
Once the day trippers leave, the island becomes peaceful and intimate. Choose a ryokan or guesthouse with an onsen for the full experience.
Transport Tips:
Catching the ferry from Miyajimaguchi to Miyajima is easy—two companies, JR and Matsudai, run frequent 10-minute rides for ¥200 one way. Both accept IC cards, so you can just tap and go.
Getting there is simple: take the JR Sanyo Line from Hiroshima Station (25 min, ¥420, covered by Japan Rail Pass) or Tram #2 (slower, ¥240, not covered). From Miyajimaguchi Station, it’s a short walk to the pier.
Tip: Top up your IC card at any convenience store and watch the last ferry back so you don’t get stranded!
🏮 Estimated Total Budget for Miyajima
Day Trip (no accommodation):
- Train Hiroshima ⇄ Miyajimaguchi: ¥3,340 (¥1,670 × 2)
- Ferry ⇄ Miyajima: ¥600 (¥300 × 2)
- Itsukushima Shrine entry: ¥300
- Other Attractions (temple, etc.): ¥100
- Ropeway return: ¥1,900
- Food: ¥2,000–3,500
➡️ Total: ¥8,240 – ¥9,740
Overnight Stay (with accommodation):
- Same as above: ¥8,240 – ¥9,740
- Accommodation (on the island): ¥10,000–25,000+ depending on ryokan/guesthouse
➡️ Total: ¥18,240 – ¥34,740+
✨ Tip: If you’re on a budget, staying at Miyajimaguchi (or even back in Hiroshima) can save quite a lot, since island ryokans are more of a splurge experience.
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.
👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
