Kl to Madrid 10 & 11 Dec 2025
A European Reunion: More Than 20 Years in the Making
The last time I set foot in Europe, two decades melted away in an instant. This trip, spanning from Kuala Lumpur (KL) to Doha and finally to Madrid, marks a long-awaited reunion with Southern Europe—a region whose vivaciousness and kindness I still hold dear. I remembered being utterly lost on the streets of Madrid and Barcelona, only for strangers to not just point the way, but go out of their way to guide me until I was safely on my path. These spontaneous acts of generosity, this genuine warmth, are the essence of the Spanish character.
Yet, I also recalled a brief, jarring moment: a classic street scam where people posed as police to check my passport. Fortunately, I escaped that encounter unscathed. As a seasoned traveler, incorporating these anecdotes serves as a crucial, well-rounded reminder: the world is full of beauty and kindness, but vigilance is always a necessity.
This return is different. While I’m going back to beloved Madrid, this journey is also a debut, with my first visits to Portugal and Morocco on the itinerary.
The Global Crossroads: 8 Hours in Doha Hamad International Airport (DOH)
The marathon trip from Malaysia began with the Qatar Airways flight and a stopover at Doha’s Hamad International Airport (DOH). After the long haul, exhaustion was setting in as we reached the airport at night. But even tired, the sheer scale and beauty of DOH were a welcome distraction—it truly feels like a global nexus.
We had an 8-hour transfer, providing ample time to explore. The airport is famous for its iconic art installations—far more than just a waiting area. We spent time walking around, taking photos with the renowned Lamp Bear by Swiss artist Urs Fischer, an enormous teddy-bear-like sculpture in the duty-free hall, as well as checking out the other magnificent art and the stunning ORCHARD indoor tropical garden.
For fellow weary travelers, the airport offers practical comfort: plenty of seating and the sanctuary of the Quiet Zone where we managed to catch a few hours of sleep, a truly invaluable amenity for a long layover.
Welcome to Spain: Immigration Shock and Train Tickets
The Immigration Hurdle: New EU Systems
After the transfer, the next leg to Madrid felt surprisingly long due to the queue at immigration. We initially walked past the line, bewildered by its length, and had to walk all the way back to join it—a few minutes walk just to reach the tail! The queue was shockingly slow. I, like many, had forgotten how time-consuming airport processing can be. My friend mentioned the recently implemented new EU immigration systems, which seem to be causing these lengthy bottlenecks. Thankfully, the staff were visibly trying their best to process everyone as swiftly as possible.
Conquering the Renfe Ticket Machine
Having done our transport homework, we headed straight for the Renfe train station to buy the 10-trip card (which is sharerable and perfect for small groups). The ticket machines, however, presented an intimidating array of options. The English translations were not entirely helpful, forcing us to use a translator app to decipher the Spanish terms and ensure we were buying the correct tarjeta (card).
My practical advice? Do your research on the exact ticket you need, keep your translator app handy, and be steady to buy your card. The good news is that cards are widely accepted for payment.
Hotel Notes: What to Pack for Comfort
Here are a few quick, practical notes from checking into our European hotel:
- Kettles: Many hotels don’t provide kettles in the room by default, but when we asked, one was provided.1
- Toiletries: You will likely need to ask for toothbrushes, and while tea/coffee sachets are sometimes provided, don’t rely on them. Best to bring your own toothbrush and your preferred tea/coffee.1
- Slippers: The most notable absence was indoor slippers. European rooms often have cold tile or hard-surface floors. Given how accustomed we are to being barefoot indoors (in Asia), this is a small but crucial item. I will definitely be packing my own pair next time.1
These are trivial in the grand scheme of a European adventure, but they are useful pieces of information for preparing your own trip!
Madrid Stroll: History and Holiday Spirit
After checking in, we set out for a simple, restorative stroll around the city, eager to soak in the Madrid air.
A Glimpse into Madrid’s Deep History
As we walked, I couldn’t help but reflect on the city’s incredible past. Madrid’s history is not immediately evident in the same way as Rome or Paris, but it runs deep. The city was founded in the late 9th century by the Muslim Emir Muhammad I, who established a fortress called Mayrit (meaning “place of plentiful waterways”) on the banks of the Manzanares river. It was a key military outpost for the Emirate of Córdoba.
The city fell to the Christian King Alfonso VI of Castile in 1085, as part of the Reconquista. Despite this, it consolidated over the Late Middle Ages as an important town of the Crown of Castile. The biggest change came in 1561, when King Philip II decided to move the permanent seat of the Hispanic Monarchy’s court to Madrid, making it the de facto capital of the vast Spanish Empire. From a small town of perhaps 20,000, it rapidly grew into a major capital, attracting writers like Cervantes and artists like Velázquez during the subsequent Habsburg and Bourbon eras. This rich, diverse past—from a Moorish fortress to the center of a global empire—makes every street corner feel significant.
Puerta de Toledo (Toledo Gate)
Our walk took us to the Puerta de Toledo (Toledo Gate). Its neoclassical, Neo-Roman archway is a striking sight. The gate we see today was completed in 1827 by architect Antonio López Aguado, commissioned by King Ferdinand VII. It replaced earlier gates and was built to commemorate the arrival of the King, symbolizing the power of the Spanish monarchy across both hemispheres. Looking at its granite and Colmenar stone structure with three arches, you are looking at a piece of history that stood as one of the last major monumental gates built in Madrid.
Plaza Mayor: Madrid’s Christmas Heart
With Christmas approaching, our stroll led us to the Plaza Mayor Xmas Market. Stepping into this historic square, with its traditional 104 red wooden stalls, is like stepping into a holiday postcard.
Cultural Context: The Plaza Mayor has been the centerpiece of Madrid life since its remodel in 1619, hosting everything from markets and bullfights to public executions. The Christmas market itself has a history stretching back over 150 years, though it began in the neighboring Plaza de Santa Cruz in the 17th century. It was permanently moved here in 1860. The market is famous for specializing in belenes (nativity scene figures) and artículos de broma (joke items). The vibrant atmosphere under the magnificent, arcaded square is quintessentially Spanish holiday spirit.
A Whimsical Find: The Cortylandia Show
Our walk continued, passing by the famous shopping street Calle de Tetuan, when we stumbled upon a crowd gathering at the El Corte Inglés shopping mall. This is where we witnessed the famous Cortylandia Musical Show on the facade! This is a long-standing seasonal tradition in Madrid, a whimsical, animated puppet and light show put on by the department store chain El Corte Inglés. While we didn’t have much time, we happily joined the throng, enjoying the joyous, slightly retro spectacle that marks the start of the holiday season for many Madrileños.
Finally, a beautiful end to our first night: an expensive dinner of paella. We discovered the common challenge: many places price paella per portion, with a minimum requirement of two people, which can be tricky for solo travelers or small eaters. Thankfully, some smaller, more local spots do offer single or smaller servings. If you’re traveling as a larger group, you’re in luck! This final delicious meal concluded our first vibrant, adventure-filled day back in Europe.
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