12 May 2025 Monday
Good morning! Our Kumano Kodo trip had ended, but we weren’t quite done exploring. We were still in Kii Katsuura, and of course, we had to start the day with its most famous scene — the tuna auction.
The Tuna Auction
We woke up early and joined the line of spectators at the fish market. A barrier separated us from the buyers, who were busy inspecting rows and rows of tuna (maguro) laid neatly on the floor.
It was oddly endearing. On one side, the buyers tapping, checking, and negotiating; on the other, us tourists quietly snapping photos in respectful silence. There was a sense of acceptance — as if both sides knew this dance was part of the town’s rhythm.
After a while, though, it became repetitive. Big fish, quick inspection, decision made. Time for breakfast.
Market Breakfast Adventures
The smaller market next door (Katsuura Gyoko Nigiwai-Ichiba)felt cozy, with stalls serving up different tuna-based dishes. Prices weren’t a bargain, but reasonable enough.
My dad tried the tuna ramen, and he really disliked it — way too salty, and just odd overall. He’s usually diplomatic about food, often saying “not my taste” instead of “bad.” But this time? Nope. Full rejection.
I went for tuna ochazuke, rice with raw tuna and hot tea poured over it. Simple, fresh, and warming — exactly what I needed.
To Taiji by Boat
Next came a boat ride to Taiji, a town famous (and infamous) for whaling. This is also one of the only places in Japan where you can eat dolphin sashimi, alongside whale.
Visiting the Taiji Whale Museum felt controversial — and a bit strange. We watched both live shows, but honestly, I was more impressed by the exhibitions inside. The history of whaling here was unexpectedly fascinating: maps of long voyages, preserved specimens, tools, and records.
It reminded me of an earlier age when the seas felt endless and mysterious, when people discovered plants, animals, and even islands they’d never seen before. There was this eagerness to collect and understand everything, to bring back knowledge from faraway places.
In contrast, today the world feels mapped and known. Sure, there’s still plenty we don’t understand, but that pure sense of “what’s out there?” feels harder to capture. Maybe I’m just nostalgic for an era I never lived through, but it left me thinking about how curiosity itself has changed.
Back to Katsuura and the Onsen Quest
We ferried back to Katsuura in the late afternoon, and I was determined we wouldn’t leave without visiting at least one onsen. This town is famous for hot springs, after all.
So we walked through a tunnel to reach an onsen resort by the sea. No one else was there, which meant my dad and I each had our own private outdoor bath.
Too bad it was already dark — I couldn’t see much of the sea view. Still, the hot water, the cool night air, and the quiet made it memorable. After all the walking we’d done on the Kumano Kodo, it felt like the reward we deserved.
A Yakiniku Finale
For our final dinner, we found a little yakiniku spot Kazu. The food was great, but I was too excited to eat and forgot to take pictures. Just the ramen and the alcohol. Sometimes the best meals are the ones you just enjoy without documenting.
And that was it — our Kii Katsuura adventure, the last chapter of our Kumano Kodo journey. Tuna, boats, hot springs, and grilled meat — not a bad way to end.
📝 Practical Details
- Katsuura Tuna Auction: Held most mornings at Katsuura Fish Market. Visitors can watch from a designated viewing area.
- Taiji Boat Ride: Ferries connect Katsuura and Taiji in about 20–25 minutes.
- Taiji Whale Museum: Entry ¥1,700 adults. Includes dolphin & whale shows, exhibitions, and preserved specimens.
- Katsuura Onsen: Many seaside resorts have public baths. Some require walking through tunnels or short boat rides. Try to go before sunset for the sea view!
- 🎟️ Optional Add-ons: Enhance Your Experience
- Wakayama Pass: ¥3,000
Consider purchasing the Wakayama Pass, which offers discounts and access to various attractions, including Ki-no-Matsushima Islands Sightseeing Ship.
1-Day Kii-Katsuura Budget Guide
Spending a day in Kii-Katsuura doesn’t have to break the bank. Here’s a glimpse of how you can enjoy the sights, sounds, and flavors of this charming coastal town in just one day.
💤 Accommodation
- Hotel: ¥8,400
After a long day of exploring, settle into a cozy hotel for the night. A comfortable stay gives you the perfect base for your Kii-Katsuura adventure.
🐬 Sightseeing
- Taiji Whale & Dolphin Museum Ticket: ¥1,700
Step into the world of Taiji’s marine life. Learn about the town’s history with whales and dolphins while appreciating conservation efforts. It’s both educational and fascinating.
⛴️ Transport
- Cruise from Kii-Katsuura to Taiji: ¥1,800
Hop on a scenic boat ride along the stunning coastline. The gentle waves and ocean breeze make it the perfect way to travel between towns.
💰 Total for the Day: ¥11,900
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.
👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
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