7 May 2025 – 11 May 2025
The Kumano Kodo in Wakayama, Japan, is one of only two UNESCO-recognized pilgrimage networks in the world (the other is Spain’s Camino de Santiago). For over a thousand years, emperors, monks, and ordinary pilgrims have made their way through cedar forests and mountain passes to reach the sacred Kumano Sanzan shrines.
Our 5-day walk took us across history, legends, and some seriously sore legs. Here’s how it unfolded:
On the Kumano Kodo: Tanabe to Takahara – Stamps, Steep Climbs & Scenic Views | Japan
Day 1 of the Kumano Kodo begins in Tanabe, visiting shrines and tasting local treats before a scenic bus to Tajikirio. Pilgrims collect their first stamps, tackle a steep climb to Takahara, and stay at Kirinosato Takahara, enjoying mountain views, onsen relaxation, and the rewarding start of…
Kumano Kodo Day 2: From Takahara to Chikatsuyu – Stamps, Scenery & A Pilgrim’s Picnic | Japan
Kumano Kodo Takahara to Chikatsuyu hike offers scenic shrines, stamp collecting, and a memorable pilgrim’s picnic at Gyuba-oji. Explore cedar forests, visit Tsugizakura-oji’s ancient trees, and enjoy local minshuku hospitality. Tips include luggage forwarding, best lunch spots, and catching the last bus after a day of cultural…
Kumano Kodo Day 3: Wrong Turns, Raincoats, and Japan’s Biggest Torii | Japan
Kumano Kodo Day 3 was full of surprises: a rainy hike from Hosshinmon Oji to Hongu Taisha, a wrong turn that led fellow hikers astray, and the awe-inspiring Oyunohara Torii Gate. We also discovered the Dual Pilgrimage Certificate, linking Japan’s Kumano Kodo with Spain’s Camino de Santiago—two…
Kumano Kodo Day 4: Cancelled Boats, Steep Shrines, and Slow Living in Shingu | Japan
Kumano Kodo hike, Kumano River Boat Cruise, Shingu Wakayama, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Tankaku Castle Ruins, Jofuku Park Shingu, Kamikura Shrine climb, Gotobiki-iwa boulder, Pilgrimage in Japan, Kumano Kodo itinerary, Hiking in Wakayama, Japan travel diary
Kumano Kodo Day 5: Nachi Taisha & Tuna Town Kii-Katsuura | Japan
Day 5 of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage took us to Kumano Nachi Taisha, a sacred shrine with over 1,400 years of history. We explored ancient cedar forests, climbed into a hollow tree, and descended Daimon-zaka to witness Japan’s tallest waterfall, Nachi Falls, near the quiet tuna port…
🥾 The Dual Pilgrimage Certificate
One of the coolest discoveries: completing the Kumano Kodo also connects you to Spain’s Camino de Santiago. They are the only two pilgrimage routes in the world with UNESCO World Heritage status. If you’ve walked both, you can apply for the Dual Pilgrimage Certificate — a symbol linking East and West, and a reminder that pilgrimages cross cultures and continents. (We couldn’t resist collecting ours!)
Practical Tips for Future Pilgrims
- 🚌 Transport: Local buses connect the towns and trailheads, but check schedules — some only run a few times a day.
- ⏱️ Walking times: Most stages took us 2–5 hours, depending on breaks (and photo stops).
- 💴 Costs: Buses around ¥1,000–1,800, meals around ¥1,000 each, accommodation from ¥8,000 per person with dinner/breakfast.
- 🛏️ Booking: Use the Kumano Travel site. It’s excellent but community-run, so availability is limited — book months ahead if possible.
- 🏞️ What to expect: Beautiful forests, lots of stairs, fellow pilgrims, and a blend of exhaustion and inspiration you’ll remember forever.
Note: In the previous post, I tried to break down the cost for 1 person, but the fact is this was a trip for 2 people. Some shared room costs affected the total, so the following budget is calculated for 2 people.
| Day | Route / Stay | Main Costs (2 ppl) | Estimated Total (2 ppl) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Wakayama → Kii-Tanabe → Takahara | Train ¥3,520, bus ¥1,750, luggage ¥3,460, stamp book ¥200, accommodation ~¥30,000, food ~¥5,000–7,000 | ~¥44,000–46,000 |
| 2 | Takahara → Chikatsuyu | Bus ¥920 (optional), accommodation ~¥33,000, meals ~¥5,000 | ~¥39,000 |
| 3 | Chikatsuyu → Hongu Taisha → Yunomine Onsen | Bus ¥1,180 + ¥940, luggage ¥3,500, onsen tax/towels ¥400, accommodation ~¥25,000, food ~¥4,000 | ~¥35,000 |
| 4 | Yunomine Onsen → Shingu | Bus ¥3,140, accommodation ~¥20,000, food ~¥5,000–7,000 | ~¥28,000–30,000 |
| 5 | Shingu → Nachi Taisha → Katsuura | Bus ¥1,160 + ¥3,320, laundry ¥2,200, accommodation ~¥20,000, food ~¥7,000+ | ~¥34,000 |
| Total for 2 People (5 Days) | ~¥180,000–184,000 | ||
✨ Final Thoughts
What made our Kumano Kodo journey even more special was the people we crossed paths with. We found ourselves meeting the same group of pilgrims again and again along the trail — at bus stops, tiny mountain lodges, or in front of shrine gates. It felt like we were all part of a semi close-knit community, walking the same path at our own pace yet somehow together.
Beyond the shrines and cedar forests, the trail also revealed another side of Japan — the charm of remote villages, family-run inns, and towns tucked deep in the mountains. These quiet discoveries, far from the usual tourist routes, made the pilgrimage not just a walk through history, but also a glimpse into a slower, more personal Japan.
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.
👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
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