20 Sep 2025
This was the day we decided to head out for a day trip to Atush (阿图什) and visit the famous Shipton Arch, one of Xinjiang’s most incredible natural wonders.
Originally, we thought of joining a tour, but the quoted prices for a private car were quite high. So we asked the female taxi driver we met yesterday if she could take us for a full-day trip — she happily agreed. We set off around 9:30 a.m., thinking it would be a quick drive. Spoiler: it wasn’t.
🪪 Border Pass and Security Checks
The journey was long and slow because of strict speed limits (40–60 km/h) and multiple security checks. Since Atush and Shipton Arch are located close to the border area, visitors must apply for a border pass (边境通行证) in advance — something that can be arranged through a local travel agency or the police bureau in Kashgar.
At one checkpoint, the officers asked the usual questions — where we were staying, where we were going, and our purpose of visit. They were polite, just careful. We realized later that most people join group tours for this route, so our little taxi probably looked a bit out of place.
🏔️ The Wonder of Atush Shipton Arch
The drive took more than two hours, passing through rocky hills and dry, otherworldly landscapes. The air felt cooler and thinner as we climbed, and by the time we arrived, it was windy and cold — I regretted not bringing my thicker windbreaker.
Shipton Arch (阿图什天门) is said to be the tallest natural arch in the world, standing around 366 meters high and over 60 meters wide. It was named after Eric Shipton, a British mountaineer and explorer who rediscovered it in 1947 during his mapping expedition of the region. For locals, however, it has long been known as “Tianshan Tianmen” (天山天门) — the Heavenly Gate of the Tianshan Mountains.
We bought our tickets, which included shuttle transport to the next station. As with many scenic areas in China, the actual attraction is far away from the main gate — probably to manage crowd flow or, let’s be honest, to sell more shuttle tickets. Still, with the cold wind, we didn’t mind paying extra for the ride.
🧗 Climbing to the Top
Even with the shuttle, you still need to climb to reach the main viewing platform. There was another short cable car for the final stretch, but foreigners can’t use the local QR ticketing system, as it requires mainland ID registration.
We didn’t have enough cash at that point, but the staff were incredibly kind — they gave us an alternative QR code to pay, recorded the transaction manually, and even told the cable car operators to look out for us. It felt like such a warm, genuine human moment in a place so remote.
The air got thinner as we climbed, and I started using my small oxygen tank to stay comfortable. The path wound around sheer cliffs and weathered stone walls that had stood silent for millennia.
When we finally reached the viewing platform, the view was surreal. The arch stood like a gateway carved by the gods, immense and timeless. From mid-height, you could see how vast it was — you had to look both up and down to take in its full scale. I could only imagine how breathtaking it must look from below, towering hundreds of meters above the valley floor.
There were quite a few tourists, including groups speaking Thai and Cantonese, but everyone seemed patient and respectful — taking turns for photos, quietly soaking in the view, as if everyone understood this was a sacred place.
🚗 Heading Toward Wuqia — The Western Edge of China
After Shipton Arch, we wanted to continue on to Wuqia (乌恰) — a border town close to Kyrgyzstan. It wasn’t far on the map, but with the strict speed limits, it took nearly another hour to reach.
We were stopped again for registration since Wuqia County is a border-control zone, and independent travelers without guides are less common. The officers were professional but friendly, and after the usual checks, we entered the town.
Wuqia (乌恰县), also known as Uqturpan or Ulugqat, sits at the far western edge of China, under the Kizilsu Kirghiz Autonomous Prefecture (克孜勒苏柯尔克孜自治州). It’s home to mostly Kyrgyz people, and life here moves at a slower rhythm compared to Kashgar. Historically, it was part of the ancient Silk Road, once a crossroads for merchants trading silk, jade, and horses between Central Asia and China.
By the time we arrived, we were tired and hungry, so we found a small local eatery and ordered lamb skewers, noodles, and 烤包子 (baked buns) — simple, hearty, and delicious.
We used the meter, and the final total came to 550 RMB (including tolls) — very reasonable for a full-day journey that far west.
When leaving Wuqia, we had to register again to record our exit from the border zone. It sounds tedious, but everything was efficient, and by then, the whole routine almost felt normal.
🪪 Reflections on Travel and Freedom
At one point during the ride back, I started thinking about how every move we made that day — every stop, every gate — was registered. It felt strange at first, but also reassuring. You could see it both ways: being watched, or being protected.
Centuries ago, travel was far more restricted.
- In imperial China, travelers needed a government permit called a lu yin (路引) to move between provinces.
- In Japan’s Edo period, commoners couldn’t freely leave their hometowns.
- Even on the ancient Silk Road, merchants had to carry caravan papers or official seals to cross territories safely.
So yes, we may need to show our passports and border passes a few times — but at least we can travel freely across this vast land.
🌃 Back in Kashgar
We reached Kashgar around 5 p.m., tired but happy. After a quick rest, we headed out again at night to Kashgar’s West Ancient City. The warm glow of lanterns lit up the cobbled streets, and the smell of grilled meat and naan filled the air.
We stopped by our favorite stall for BBQ chicken and duck leg with naan — the perfect end to a long, adventurous day. The food tasted even better after the mountain wind and cold air of Shipton.
As I looked at the night view of Kashgar’s old streets, I thought to myself: maybe next time, we’ll stay right inside the old town — just to wander these ancient alleys under the stars.
💡 Travel Tips
✅ Border Pass Required: Apply in Kashgar before visiting Shipton Arch, Wuqia, or Tashkurgan.
💸 Bring Cash: Some scenic ticketing systems require mainland ID registration to purchase tickets online.
🧥 Stay Warm: Shipton Arch can be cold and windy even in summer.
🧃 Oxygen Helps: Bring a small oxygen tank for higher altitudes.
🚗 Expect Delays: Speed limits and checkpoints add hours to travel time.
📸 Morning Light: Best for photographing Shipton Arch.
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