23 September 2025
Location: Tashkurgan 塔什库尔干, Xinjiang
The day before, I didn’t shower — trying to avoid altitude sickness.
The next morning, while waiting for our driver, I wandered outside the guesthouse. The landscape felt barren and endless.
A horse stood alone in the distance, motionless. It felt like waking up at the edge of the world.
🏰 Stone City 石头城 – The Remains of the Silk Road
Our first stop was Stone City (石头城）.
It was once a major Silk Road fortress, and some say Tang Monk Xuanzang once preached here. Today it’s a spread of ruins — crumbled walls, scattered stones.
At the entrance, ethnic performers sang beautifully.
We took the buggy into the site and walked along the long wooden path.
Honestly, if you don’t know the history, there isn’t much “to see.”
It’s all ruins — and without context, it feels empty.
You really need to slow down, read the signs, or imagine what once existed here. Only then does the silence feel meaningful.
There were other cultural areas inside the site, but I skipped them — not sure if they were worth the time.
🌾 Golden Grassland 金草滩 – Beauty or Just Dead Grass?
Next was Golden Grassland (金草滩 Jīncǎotān).
The sun was out, the heat rising. The name sounds poetic, but what I saw looked like a field of dried, dead grass.
Maybe because I’m from a place without seasons, I don’t resonate with this kind of “autumn beauty.” Many people find it romantic — I just didn’t feel much.
Maybe it’s also because I’m not into “photo-only” spots anymore.
But I did like the black swans on the lake — their reflections looked stunning.
If we’re talking about barren landscapes that shock the senses, Iran still felt more powerful to me.
Perhaps because it was my first desert-like experience, everything felt new at that time.
Tashkurgan has a slightly softer kind of emptiness — occasionally you still see a tree.
Still, since we came all this way, Golden Grassland is worth a look.
🐉 Panlong Road 盘龙古道 – The Road That Made Me Regret It
Then came Panlong Ancient Road (盘龙古道 Pánlóng Gǔdào) — the famous winding mountain road.
Our driver was steady and stopped at every scenic corner for photos. The views really were spectacular.
But honestly, we’re more “experience-oriented” than “photo-oriented” travelers.
Halfway through, I regretted choosing this route.
The endless turns made the journey long and dizzying.
The driver slowed down to avoid motion sickness — ironically making it feel even longer.
It’s an “experience once in your life” road.
Beautiful, but I definitely wouldn’t do it again. 😅
🏞 White Sand Lake 白沙湖 – Stillness in the Barren Land
After all those curves, we finally reached White Sand Lake (白沙湖 Báishā Hú).
The lake was huge — deep blue waves surrounded by almost treeless land.
In a place that looks so dry, the abundance of water felt surreal.
We stopped at various viewpoints, each angle offering a different mood.
We also passed Pamir Eye (帕米尔之眼 Pàmǐ’ěr zhī Yǎn), a trendy check-in spot.
But for me, White Sand Lake was the true highlight of the entire Tashkurgan trip.
Its stillness felt heavier than the scenery itself.
🌄 Muyun Guesthouse 暮云山庄 – Too Cold for Sunset, But the Yak Steak Was Worth It
Our last stop was Muyun Guesthouse (暮云山庄 Mùyún Shānzhuāng) in Subashi Village.
We planned to see alpenglow on the mountains, but the wind was too strong and the cold too sharp.
We gave up halfway and returned.
Dinner, however, was fantastic.
The spicy yak steak (香辣牦牛排) and farmhouse dishes were flavorful, generous, not cheap — but easily the best meat I’d eaten in Xinjiang.
That day was the coldest day in Tashkurgan, but this meal felt like the warmest moment.
🌬 Reflections
Tashkurgan feels like a place where “nothing happens,” yet somehow it leaves you with a lot to think about.
It’s quiet, empty, vast — and if you like landscapes that don’t try hard to impress you, this place will stay with you.
Leave a Reply