From Footsteps to Memories

The Botchan Train, a small red and black steam-style train, traveling through Matsuyama city streets, inspired by Natsume Sōseki’s novel.

A Day in Matsuyama: Castles, Onsen, and amazing sea bream rice (taimeshi) | Japan

3 May 2025 Saturday

A Day in Matsuyama: Castles, Onsen, and amazing sea bream rice (taimeshi)

Hand-drawn travel sketch of Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama Castle stamps, and Taimeshi dish from Matsuyama, Japan.
Hand-drawn watercolor sketch of the Botchan Train and Dogo Onsen Station in Matsuyama, Japan.

Our brief stay in Matsuyama, the capital of Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku Island, was packed with charm, history, and unexpected delights. Two places I absolutely couldn’t miss were Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama Castle—both iconic, both steeped in culture, and both worth the hype.

Dogo Onsen: A Spirited Away Dream (Almost)

Historic multi-story wooden bathhouse building with intricate latticework and tiled roof under a clear sky, part of the Dōgo Onsen Honkan in Matsuyama, Japan.
Traditional Japanese-style building with red and white walls and a hexagonal tower under a clear blue sky, part of the Dōgo Onsen complex in Matsuyama, Japan.
Exterior of Dogo Onsen Station in Matsuyama, Japan, showing traditional Meiji-era architecture with wooden details and red roof accents.
A breakfast plate with an English muffin sandwich topped with a poached egg and bacon, served with a side salad and a cup of coffee, at a café in Matsuyama.
A thick slice of golden-brown French toast served with whipped cream, fresh fruit slices, and a mint leaf on a beige plate.
Cup of latte with heart-shaped foam and a slice of cheesecake on a white plate with chocolate drizzle, set on a wooden café table in Matsuyama.
Traditional wooden entrance of Dōgo Onsen Honkan in Matsuyama, Japan, featuring ornate roof carvings, Japanese flags, and people entering the historic bathhouse.

As a long-time fan of Spirited Away, I was drawn to Dogo Onsen, said to be one of the inspirations for the film’s bathhouse. It’s also one of Japan’s oldest hot springs, with a history stretching back over a thousand years.

But reality set in quickly: it was Golden Week and a weekend, which meant long queues even in the morning. We’d hoped to beat the crowds by going early, but the line was already stretching outside by the time we arrived. So instead of soaking in the baths, we admired the beautiful Meiji-era architecture from the outside—and honestly, the building itself is a work of art.

Riding the Botchan Train (坊っちゃん列車) in Matsuyama, Ehime 🚂✨

A vintage-style green locomotive known as the Botchan train displayed on tracks in front of buildings in downtown Matsuyama under a bright blue sky.
The Botchan Train, a small red and black steam-style train, traveling through Matsuyama city streets, inspired by Natsume Sōseki’s novel.

Instead of waiting in line, we rode the Botchan Train—also called Botchan Ressha (坊っちゃん列車) or just Botchan—and let me share the full experience! This tiny, “matchbox-sized” train is a diesel-powered replica of the original steam locomotive that ran in Matsuyama from 1888 to 1955, named after Botchan, the mischievous hero of Soseki Natsume’s classic novel.

As luck would have it, we were visiting on a Saturday, the day the train runs. We were there pretty early, but the ticket office wasn’t open yet. So we grabbed breakfast and strolled around the charming streets of the Dogo Onsen area. By the time the office opened, the queue had already started forming, but it wasn’t too bad. Tickets are now handled differently: they give you a number indicating your boarding sequence instead of selling the ticket upfront. This meant we had some time to explore before our train departed—perfect for walking around and soaking in the area.

Watching the train arrive was a highlight! The conductor, dressed in full old-school uniform, waved to everyone, and many of us, including us, waved back and snapped pictures and videos. Boarding followed our numbers: the conductor let us pay with IC cards and handed us our tickets. Our numbers were toward the front, so we got seats, but the train filled up quickly, and some passengers had to stand. Everyone was polite, sharing space as best they could.

The ride itself? Quite loud, and curious passersby looked in from outside—but it was fun! You can enjoy the views from inside and outside the train, and you can hop off at intermediate stops if you want. There’s a maximum of 36 passengers, and no reservations are accepted. They used to offer a tourist set ticket, but it seems that’s no longer available—probably because the train is so popular and seats are limited.

Though the ride was short and a little crowded, it was still fun to rattle along the streets of Matsuyama in this historic train, surrounded by nostalgic details and a touch of whimsy.

We alighted at the last stop, Matsuyama City Station, but didn’t have time to visit the Botchan Train Museum—we were heading to Matsuyama Castle. Next time, I’d love to explore the museum for a fuller experience.

Quick Tips & Info:

Whether you’re a history buff, literature fan, or just love quirky trains, the Botchan Train is a fun, nostalgic way to experience Matsuyama, Ehime—a ride that’s small in size but big on charm!

Bansuiso Villa: European Elegance in Shikoku

A Day in Matsuyama: Castles, Onsen, and amazing sea bream rice (taimeshi) | Japan
A Day in Matsuyama: Castles, Onsen, and amazing sea bream rice (taimeshi) | Japan 1

After the train ride, we made our way to Bansuiso, a French-style villa built in 1922 by Count Hisamatsu Sadakoto, a former lord of the Matsuyama domain. The elegant colonial-style mansion, with its stone facade and ornate interiors, is a rare sight in Japan and gives a glimpse into the Western influence during the Taisho period. It now serves as a cultural venue and is open for public viewing.

Shopping Streets, Ropeways, and a Castle on a Hill

A large, carefully pruned pine tree supported by wooden poles within the Matsuyama Castle compound on a sunny day, with visitors walking around.
A person riding an open chairlift ascending a grassy hill surrounded by greenery at the ropeway to Matsuyama Castle in Japan.
Visitors walking through a large wooden gate at Matsuyama Castle, surrounded by stone walls and traditional Japanese architecture.
The main keep of Matsuyama Castle in Japan, with its traditional white plaster walls and black wooden accents, viewed from below with visitors gathered at the base on a clear, sunny day.

We continued our walk up the charming shopping streets that lead toward Matsuyama Castle, sampling local snacks and enjoying the festive vibe of Golden Week. For lunch, we tried Taimeshi, a local specialty dish made with sea bream (tai) served over rice, often with a light soy-based sauce and raw egg. It’s simple, delicate, and deeply satisfying—definitely one of the must-try foods in Ehime.

We then took the ropeway up to the castle. Perched on top of Mount Katsuyama, Matsuyama Castle is one of Japan’s few remaining original castles. The panoramic views of the city from the top were breathtaking. However, the holiday crowd made the area feel a bit congested, so we didn’t linger too long.

Onward to Tokushima and a Surprise Dinner

After our sightseeing, we boarded a five-hour bus ride to Tokushima, our stopover city before catching the ferry to Wakayama the next day.

Arriving on a Saturday night during Golden Week, we discovered that finding dinner was no easy task—everywhere was fully booked or closed. Just as we were about to give up, we stumbled upon a hidden gem Hanana:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ksSTpZVXKDjq5W7J7

A glass of iced orange juice beside a small dish of Japanese appetizer topped with chopped green onions, served on a wooden table in a restaurant.
A traditional Japanese meal in Tokushima featuring tai chazuke — slices of sea bream over rice in hot broth, served with seaweed, pickles, lime, and wasabi on the side.
A beautifully plated dish featuring a golden, crispy croquette served with broccoli on a rich dark sauce and cream garnish, presented on a white flower-shaped plate.
Grilled Awa chicken served on a bed of fresh greens with chopped scallions in Tokushima, Japan.
One of the best chicken dishes we had in Tokushima — tender, flavorful Awa chicken beautifully grilled and garnished with scallions.

A small, cozy yakitori restaurant that turned out to be a lifesaver—and honestly, the best grilled chicken I had during my entire trip in Japan. Perfectly charred, juicy, and full of flavor, it was the kind of comforting meal that makes a long travel day feel worth it.

💰 Matsuyama Budget

📊 Estimated Subtotal

¥3,460 (excluding food, souvenirs, and accommodation)

🍜 Food & Accommodation

✨ Matsuyama is compact and easy to explore by tram. A day here can be both affordable and full of history, from the grand castle to the retro charm of the Botchan train.

👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.

👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.

👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.

👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan

Life Of A Book

,

Leave a Reply

Posts

Discover more from Wanderaime

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading

Discover more from Wanderaime

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading