6 May 2025 Wednesday to 12 May 2025 Monday
👉 Want to see the complete 5-day Kumano Kodo hiking itinerary? Click here to read.
Kumano Kodo Day 2: From Takahara to Chikatsuyu – Stamps, Scenery & A Pilgrim’s Picnic
The morning sun lit up our cozy room at Kirinosato Takahara as we enjoyed our final breakfast. The thoughtful owner handed us a carefully wrapped bento – rice balls, pickled vegetables and grilled fish for the trail. “Eat when you find a nice view,” she advised. With our stamp book in hand and walking sticks ready, we set off toward Chikatsuyu, relieved our main luggage had been forwarded from Tanabe to tonight’s lodging.
A Trail of Stamps & Stories
Today’s walk took us past several sacred oji shrines:
- Daimon-oji – The “Great Gate” shrine where the trail divides
- Jujo-oji – Once an important rest stop for imperial messengers
- Uwadawajaya-oji – A quiet forest shrine with steep stone steps
- Osakamoto-oji – Nestled deep in the cedar woods
At Gyuba-oji, we unpacked our bento at the small rest area. According to legend, an emperor’s horse refused to go further here – perhaps enchanted by the same peaceful atmosphere we enjoyed. (This is one of the few good lunch spots along this stretch!)
Chikatsuyu & The Cedar Tree Adventure
After checking in at Minshuku Wago (our forwarded luggage already waiting),
we took the bus to see Tsugizakura-oji’s legendary cedar trees. The ancient giants were breathtaking, but we lost track of time. Suddenly realizing:
- The return trail looked rougher than expected
- The last bus back was around 5:30pm
- Our “shortcut” might not have been official trail
What followed was an unplanned adventure – hiking briskly through overgrown paths, branches tugging at our clothes, racing to the bus stop. When we arrived breathless, the bus was running about 15 minutes late (very unusual for Japan!). But we made it back, laughing about our mini expedition.
Evening Comforts
Dinner at the minshuku was a feast – the owner’s special okonomiyaki, local river fish, and plenty of rice. We shared stories with fellow hikers from Germany, France and Singapore over tea.
Lessons Learned
✔ Luggage forwarding from Tanabe was a game-changer
✔ Gyuba-oji is the best lunch stop – pack food
✔ Watch the clock at Tsugizakura (last bus isn’t exact)
✔ Enjoy the slow moments – stamps, views, pilgrim chats
and… this website is a treasure for Kumano Kodo explorers.
Tomorrow brings the climb to Hongu Taisha, but tonight? A deep, well-earned sleep.
Accommodation: 民宿 和合 Minshuku WAGO (1 night) 8 May 2025
💴 Kumano Kodo Day 2 Budget
- 🚌 Bus fees – ¥460 (optional; most of the day can be walked, but we used it to skip a section)
- 🏨 Accommodation with dinner & breakfast – ¥33,000 for 2 people (~¥17,000 per person)
- ☕🍲 Coffee & meals – ~¥2,500 per person
- 🎁 Souvenirs – basically none (hard to shop while trekking through mountains 😆)
Estimated Total (per person): ~¥19,960
If you’re planning something similar, I’ve mapped out the full 38-day route, pacing, and logistics here: 38 Days in Japan: Complete Itinerary, Routes & Practical Guide (Nakasendo, Kumano Kodo & Kyushu)
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
Leave a Reply