7 January 2026
The journey from the ancient labyrinth of Fes to the golden sands of Merzouga is legendary, but nothing prepared us for the reality of a Saharan winter. This wasn’t the sun-drenched desert of postcards; this was a day defined by an extreme cold spell that had gripped everything from the Atlas Mountains to the gates of Paris.
The Departure: A Shift in Plans
We checked out of our Riad in the morning, settling the final tour fees in local Dirham. The air was biting. Our driver mentioned it was exceptionally cold—a warning I should have taken more seriously. Fearing a stuffy vehicle, I’d under-dressed, only to find that Moroccan transport rarely prioritizes heating.
Due to heavy snowfall the previous night, the Tizi n’Tichka and other high-altitude passes were closed. Our itinerary shifted: instead of the snowy cedar forests of Ifrane, we headed straight toward the desert, catching glimpses of ancient Kasbahs—fortified mud-brick villages—along the route. These structures, built from rammed earth, have stood for centuries as protective hubs for the Berber (Amazigh) people against both invaders and the harsh elements.
The Long Road South
The ride was a six-hour marathon through shifting landscapes. We stopped at a roadside buffet (10 Euros) in the middle of nowhere. While some travelers found it pricey, it felt reasonable given the isolation. Having packed our own breakfast, we stayed in the van, watching the desolate beauty of the Ziz Valley pass by.
By mid-afternoon, the cold had turned me a bit grumpy. At one point, during a stop, several of us scrambled to the back of the van to dig through our luggage for extra layers.
Entering the Erg Chebbi
The transition to the desert was abrupt. In a dusty clearing, we were shuffled from our van into a 4×4 Jeep, then suddenly, we were standing before a line of camels.
Erg Chebbi, the sea of dunes we were entering, is one of Morocco’s two major Saharan ergs. These dunes are formed by wind-blown sand and can reach heights of 150 meters. Having recently ridden camels in Xinjiang, the dunes here felt less expansive under the gloomy, darkening sky, but the rhythmic sway of the 45-minute trek into the camp was undeniably atmospheric.
Campfire, Stars, and Survival Tactics
Our camp wasn’t as isolated as I’d imagined—other clusters of tents were visible nearby—but once the sun dipped below the horizon, the temperature plummeted into the negatives.
While others gathered around the traditional bonfire to listen to Gnawa-influenced music, my friend and I focused on a different mission: astrophotography. It was freezing, and our fingers were numb as we toyed with phone settings, but the Saharan sky is a celestial masterpiece. Away from light pollution, the stars were numerous and piercingly bright.
The Reality of “Luxury” Camping: Even with an air-conditioning unit set to heat, the chill was relentless. We later met a mother and daughter who were moved to a camp without heaters because of overbooking—a scary thought given the sub-zero temperatures.
To combat the drafts, we resorted to a hilarious survival tactic: we used adhesive tape to seal the slits in our tent door. Seeing our door taped up like a DIY insulation project was comical, but necessary. I still woke up frozen in the middle of the night, shivering in the dark.
Transport & Ticket Tips
- Tour Fees: Always have the remaining balance ready in local Dirham (MAD), though it seems they do accept Euros.
- The Route: Be prepared for itinerary changes. Snow in the Atlas Mountains frequently closes the main roads in January, leading to longer transit times via eastern routes.
- Layering: Do not underestimate the desert. Bring thermal base layers and a windproof jacket. Even “luxury” tents struggle to stay warm when temperatures hit -2°C or -5°C.
- Photography: For starry skies on a phone, use “Pro” or “Night” mode with a shutter speed of 20-30 seconds. A small portable tripod is a lifesaver for desert night shots.
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