13 October 2025 | Beijing, China
After several packed days exploring Beijing, our fourth day felt slower — partly by choice, partly by exhaustion. By this point, we had already been travelling across China for almost a month. The accumulated fatigue was real, and I knew I didn’t want to spend the entire day walking endlessly across another massive attraction.
So we decided to visit two imperial garden complexes in northwestern Beijing: the Summer Palace and the nearby Yuanmingyuan (Old Summer Palace). Both are vast historical landscapes once used by Qing dynasty emperors, and both tell very different stories about China’s imperial past.
A Scenic Morning at the Summer Palace
Located about 15 km northwest of central Beijing, the Summer Palace is one of the best-preserved imperial gardens in China and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Originally built during the Qing Dynasty, it served as a summer retreat for emperors seeking relief from Beijing’s intense heat.
When people say the Summer Palace is big, they really mean it. The entire complex spans nearly 3 square kilometres, with Kunming Lake making up around three quarters of the landscape.
Instead of walking the long route around the lake, we decided to take one of the tourist boats across Kunming Lake to the opposite side. It turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day.
The moment the boat moved away from the dock, the scenery opened up immediately — calm water, elegant bridges, distant pavilions, and the iconic Longevity Hill rising behind layers of historic buildings.
It was beautiful.
But it was also very crowded.
Since it was Monday, many museums across Beijing were closed — something that often happens throughout China. As a result, a lot of domestic tourists seemed to concentrate in outdoor attractions like the Summer Palace.
Still, once we moved away from the busiest sections, the gardens felt peaceful again.
What I loved most were the traditional Chinese pavilions scattered throughout the grounds. These structures weren’t just decorative; they were designed according to classical Chinese landscape philosophy — architecture placed intentionally to frame views of water, hills, and trees.
Even walking casually along the lower grounds, the scenery kept changing:
stone pathways, willow trees by the lake, quiet courtyards, and ornate painted roofs appearing between the foliage.
There were also stairways leading up toward some of the larger temple halls and towers on Longevity Hill, but unfortunately several buildings were closed that day. Under normal circumstances, visitors can climb up for spectacular views over Kunming Lake and the gardens.
Given how tired I was after weeks of travelling, I was actually quite happy just strolling slowly around the lower areas.
And honestly — it was still incredibly beautiful.
Summer Palace Visitor Tips
Location: Haidian District, Beijing
Getting There
- Taxi or e-hailing via DiDi is usually the easiest option.
- Metro: Line 4 to Beigongmen Station or Xiyuan Station.
Ticket Information
- Basic entrance: ~30 RMB (varies by season)
- Additional tickets may be required for certain halls or boat rides.
Tip:
If you want fewer crowds, arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
Yuanmingyuan: The Ruins of the Old Summer Palace
After leaving the Summer Palace, we headed to the nearby Yuanmingyuan, also known as the Old Summer Palace.
At first, we tried negotiating a taxi fare since the distance between the two sites is actually quite short.
However, the taxi driver quoted us a price that was about three times higher than what we saw on e-hailing apps. That immediately felt suspicious.
So instead, we simply booked a ride using DiDi, which turned out to be much cheaper and more transparent.
It’s one of those small travel lessons: always check app prices before agreeing to a taxi near tourist attractions.
A Site Marked by History
While the Summer Palace feels elegant and lively, Yuanmingyuan has a very different atmosphere.
This site was once the most magnificent imperial garden complex in China. Built during the Qing dynasty, Yuanmingyuan contained hundreds of palaces, gardens, and lakes, blending traditional Chinese landscape design with Western-style palaces and fountains.
However, most of what once stood here was destroyed during the Second Opium War in 1860.
During the conflict, troops from the United Kingdom and France looted and burned the palace complex — an event that remains one of the most symbolic cultural losses in modern Chinese history.
Today, visitors walk through a landscape of ruins, lakes, and gardens. The most recognisable section is the area with European-style stone ruins, which once formed elaborate baroque fountains.
The site is enormous — even larger than the Summer Palace — but it feels quieter and more reflective.
Personally, though, I found the Summer Palace more visually beautiful. The pavilions, lake views, and pathways there felt more alive.
But historically speaking, Yuanmingyuan probably carries deeper historical weight.
Standing among the ruins, it’s hard not to imagine how grand the place must have been before its destruction.
Lunch at the 798 Art District
After Yuanmingyuan, we weren’t entirely sure where to go next.
Eventually we decided to head to the 798 Art District, a contemporary art neighbourhood located inside a former factory complex.
Originally built in the 1950s with East German industrial assistance, the district was once part of a large socialist-era electronics factory zone.
When the factories closed decades later, artists began moving into the empty warehouses in the early 2000s, gradually transforming the area into one of Beijing’s most important contemporary art hubs.
Today, the district is full of:
• art galleries
• street murals
• design shops
• cafes and restaurants
• experimental art spaces
We stopped here for lunch and ordered Beijing roast duck.
Unfortunately, this was probably the least impressive roast duck we had during our entire Beijing trip. After tasting some fantastic versions earlier, this one simply didn’t stand out — the skin wasn’t as crisp and the flavour felt less memorable.
Still, lunch wasn’t a total disappointment.
We also had the Little Red Riding Hood sandwich again, which we had tried before and enjoyed.
The Imperial Story Behind Peking Duck
Even though this particular version wasn’t the highlight of the trip, Peking Duck itself is deeply connected to Beijing’s culinary history.
The dish dates back to the Ming Dynasty, when it became a favourite in imperial kitchens.
By the Qing Dynasty, roast duck had become a signature banquet dish served in the imperial court. Chefs perfected the technique of roasting ducks in special ovens to achieve the famous crispy skin and tender meat.
Today, it remains one of Beijing’s most iconic foods, usually served with:
• thin pancakes
• sweet bean sauce
• cucumber and scallions
The ritual of slicing the duck tableside is still part of the experience in many traditional restaurants.
Reflections on the Day
Overall, it turned out to be a pretty enjoyable day.
The weather was much better than our rainy first day in Beijing, which made a big difference when visiting outdoor attractions like the Summer Palace.
Traffic in the city was still heavy, but that’s something you quickly get used to in Beijing.
Most people we met were friendly, the food was good overall, and the day felt relaxed.
The only slightly unpleasant moment was the taxi driver trying to charge a much higher price — but that can happen in tourist areas anywhere in the world.
Thankfully, apps like DiDi make it easy to avoid those situations.
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