Three Cities, Three Towns, and Two Tired Backpackers~ Ochiai, Nakatsugawa, Ena, Iwamura, Nagoya | Japan

27 April 2025 Sunday

You’d think I’d know better by now.

I’ve done long trips before—month-long ones, even. So why did I cram three towns and three cities into one day like I was trying to unlock a side quest? Blame it on FOMO and the fact that Japan is just too beautiful to slow down. Also, who kno ws when I’ll get to come back, right?

Rookie mistake.

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Magome to Ochiai-juku: A Peaceful Start

We started the day walking from Magome to Ochiai-juku—a super scenic stretch of the Nakasendo Trail. It’s not a tough walk, especially since most guesthouses have a 10am checkout policy. The path itself? Absolutely gorgeous. Think cobblestones, quiet bamboo forests, and barely any tourists because everyone else walks toward Tsumago.

Ochiai-juku is pretty chill—quieter and a bit more modern than Magome or Tsumago, but still has some historical charm. There’s a preserved honjin (basically an Edo-era VIP inn), and a stretch of original Nakasendo cobblestones. It felt like we stepped into a hidden piece of history.

But we didn’t hang around too long—caught the next bus back to Magome to grab our bags, then rushed to Nakatsugawa.

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Nakatsugawa: Just Enough Time for Ice Cream

We’ve been here before—it’s the main transfer point for buses to and from Magome—so we didn’t explore much. Just stopped by the tourist info center and had a soft serve ice cream (very necessary). Not much else to say here as our time here was short, but the ice cream was good!

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Ena: The Short Regret Stop

From Nakatsugawa, we jumped on a train to Ena, where we needed to transfer to the cute Akechi Line for Iwamura. We had about 30 minutes, spotted a museum with a Ukiyo-e woodblock print collection, but didn’t go in. Instead, we bought two beautiful decks of cards as souvenirs. Kinda regretted not seeing the art, but it would’ve been rushed.

Also, it was hot. Really hot. Most shops were closed (maybe Sundays are slow?), but I got a great cup of coffee from a van.  One thing I learned, if they show interest in you, or are trying to engage in a polite conversation, it will always sound something like “… kara desu ka?” Once I hear the last few words, I will know what to answer. “Malaysia kara desu.” (I am from Malaysia)

They are usually happy that I could reply in Japanese.

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Iwamura: Gorgeous and… Closed

By the time we got to Iwamura, it was almost 4pm—which in small-town Japan means “everything is either closed or closing.”

Still, walking down the old town street was totally worth it. Unlike more polished tourist towns, Iwamura felt authentic—lots of antique shops, beautiful old buildings, and none of the over-curated vibe. It’s a town that wears its age with pride.

We missed the famous Iwamura Castle ruins, which apparently sits way up on a mountain and is one of Japan’s top three mountain castles. Next time, maybe?

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Finally… Nagoya and Dinner That Saved the Day

After all that hopping around, we made it to Nagoya, completely wiped out. But then came dinner at Jiji—and oh my god. Worth every train transfer, sweaty walk, and museum we skipped. The service was friendly, they gave us an English menu to read through, and the food were great! 

📍Here’s the place, in case you want to treat yourself

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Would I Recommend It?

If you only have a week in Japan and want to squeeze everything in, go for it. But if you’re on a long trip? Don’t do what I did. Take it slow. Towns like Iwamura deserve time.

Sometimes less really is more.

Transport Fees for Reference:

It was a hectic day, so I’m doing my best to remember the fares. Prices in Japan seem to change all the time, and with so many train options, these numbers are just a rough guide—take them with a grain of salt!

👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.

👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.

👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.

👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan