24 May 2025
We had a long driving day ahead, crossing from northern Kyushu down into Kagoshima Prefecture. On paper, the shortest way might have been through Kumamoto and across directly, but we chose a more scenic detour through Amakusa, even if it meant juggling ferries, ports, and timing.
Morning: From Moji to Shimabara
It was a rainy day from the start. We left Moji Town after grabbing a quick breakfast at FamilyMart. Technically, there’s a Moji Port just 10 minutes away, but it only runs speedboats—not suitable when you’re driving a car. So instead, we had to aim for the Shimabara Peninsula to catch the ferry.
The rain stayed with us all morning, softening the mountain outlines and washing the roadside green.
Obama Onsen: Steam Rising from the Streets
We made a quick stop at Obama Onsen Town, a hot spring resort on the western coast of Shimabara. The name itself was half the reason we stopped (couldn’t resist, ha!), but the place turned out to be genuinely charming.
- Highlight: Obama boasts Japan’s longest footbath—over 100 meters long—where locals and visitors can soak their feet while enjoying ocean views.
- All over town, steam rises from pipes, vents, and buildings, giving it a surreal, misty atmosphere.
- At the rest stop, we grabbed some souvenirs and treated ourselves to ice cream despite the rain.
It was only a short visit, but the mix of sea breeze, sulfuric steam, and onsen-town vibe made it memorable.
Ferry to Amakusa
From the Shimabara Peninsula, we drove to Kuchinotsu Port and boarded the Shimatetsu car ferry across to Oniike Port in Amakusa. The procedure was straightforward: drive into the queue, buy a ticket, show it, and line up as directed. Easy and efficient—something Japan does so well.
The crossing took about 30 minutes. Watching the gray sea in the drizzle was oddly calming.
Afternoon in Amakusa: Sushi, Storms, and Hidden Churches
Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time to explore, since our Akune accommodation required check-in before 7 p.m. Still, Amakusa gave us a few unforgettable moments.
- Seafood feast at Amakusanada 天草洋: We had sushi and fresh abalone—delicate, sweet, and incredibly fresh. One of those meals that justifies the detour.
- The wrong turn: At one point, we tried driving up to see Amakusa Castle (also called Tomioka Castle). This fortress was once linked to the Amakusa Shirō uprising during the Shimabara Rebellion (1637–38), when local Christians and peasants rose against the shogunate. Today, the site has a reconstructed keep and a small museum. Unfortunately, we ended up on what was probably a pedestrian road, which narrowed into a dead end. Reversing downhill in the rain, with slippery leaves on the ground, was terrifying. Thankfully no other car came up behind us. After that, we gave up on castle-hunting.
- The secret church: We managed a short stop at Sakitsu Village, home to the beautiful Sakitsu Church. During the centuries when Christianity was banned in Japan, this fishing village became a refuge for hidden Christians (Kakure Kirishitan). Today, the church—built in 1934—stands quietly by the bay, blending into the small town’s narrow streets. Most visitors park outside and walk in, but by pure luck, one of the rare tourist parking spots was open right when we arrived. We only had time for a quick look and a photo, but the place left a strong impression—peaceful yet layered with history.
By late afternoon, we were racing the clock to reach the ferry.
Crossing Back to Kyushu: Toward Akune
We drove to Kuranomoto Port and caught the ferry back to mainland Kyushu, landing in Nagashima (Kagoshima Prefecture) before continuing on to Akune. The whole process was smooth, though we felt the time pressure of coordinating ferry schedules.
Evening in Akune
By the time we reached Akune, it was dark and still raining. The town itself is quiet, almost sleepy, but that added to its charm. We walked to a small yakitori place nearby. No English menu, just Japanese, so between Google Translate and my halting hiragana skills, we managed to order.
Dinner at Otone was simple and satisfying. The people were warm, and the slow pace of Akune was a nice contrast to our rushed day.
Reflections & Regrets
If I could redo this day, I’d spend more time in Shimabara (people say it’s a beautiful area with samurai houses and hot spring towns) and much more in Amakusa, which deserves at least a full day for its seafood, islands, and Christian heritage sites.
Kyushu is big—bigger than we realized. Ten days is simply not enough to explore it in detail. But even on a rainy, rushed day, it still gave us steam, sushi, secret churches, and the kind of small-town encounters that make road trips unforgettable.
🚢 Ferry & Port Logistics for This Route
For anyone planning a similar drive (with a car), here are the key ferry routes we used:
- Moji Port (Kitakyushu) – only speedboat service, no car ferries.
- Kuchinotsu Port (Shimabara Peninsula, Nagasaki) → Oniike Port (Amakusa, Kumamoto)
- Operated by Shimatetsu Ferry. ~30 min crossing. Car ferries available, very easy to use.
- Drive across Amakusa Islands (connected by bridges).
- Kuranomoto Port (Amakusa) → Nagashima Port (Kagoshima Pref.)
- ~30 min crossing. This connects Amakusa back to mainland Kyushu.
From Nagashima, it’s about an hour’s drive down to Akune.
Travel Tip: Ferry frequency can be limited—sometimes only once every 1–2 hours. It’s worth checking schedules in advance, especially if you’re racing a hotel check-in time like we were.
📜 Spotlight: The Shimabara Rebellion & Amakusa Shirō
In the early 17th century, Japan’s ruling Tokugawa shogunate banned Christianity and imposed heavy taxes on farmers. In 1637, tens of thousands of peasants and hidden Christians in Amakusa and Shimabara rose up under the leadership of Amakusa Shirō, a charismatic teenage leader.
They fortified themselves in Hara Castle (not far from Shimabara) and held off shogunate troops for months. Eventually, the rebellion was crushed in 1638, with brutal consequences—tens of thousands were killed, and Christianity was forced deeper underground.
Today, Amakusa and Shimabara are dotted with sites tied to this history—churches, museums, and monuments that tell the story of faith, resilience, and tragedy.
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
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👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
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