27 May 2025
26 May 2025
Leaving Kagoshima behind, we made our way north to Kumamoto. What started as a practical stopover turned into a pleasant day of gardens, city strolling, and castle views.
A Bakery Surprise Before Departure
Before hitting the road, I stopped by Bäckerei Danken, and it was hands down one of the best breakfast decisions of the trip. Their shio pan (salt bread) was fluffy yet crisp, lightly salty, and completely addictive. Honestly, I regretted not finding this bakery sooner—if I had, I would’ve returned every morning. It also made me think of all the small, hidden bakeries I’d missed along the way.
First Impressions of Kumamoto
I’ll admit: Kumamoto wasn’t originally high on my list. While I enjoy big cities, small towns, mountains, or seaside escapes, Kumamoto didn’t seem to have the same immediate draw. The city is famous for horse sashimi (basashi), but that’s not something I wanted to try. Still, it was a sunny day, and rather than spend hours driving, Kumamoto felt like the right place to pause and explore.
By now, collecting manhole cards had become part of our travel ritual, and Kumamoto didn’t disappoint. We stopped by the youth stadium, the sewerage department, and a few other locations, adding more cards to the growing collection.
For lunch, we tried a local ramen shop (Kumamoto Ramen Tonbi) serving noodles and pork knuckle in vinegar. Rich, tangy, and deeply satisfying—it was the kind of meal that instantly restores your energy.
Suizenji Jojuen Garden – A Walk Through History
Our first sightseeing stop was Suizenji Jojuen Garden (水前寺成趣園), a traditional Japanese landscape garden built in the 17th century by the Hosokawa clan, who ruled the Kumamoto domain during the Edo period.
The garden is famous for its miniature representation of the Tōkaidō Road, the historic highway connecting Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo). A small, cone-shaped hill symbolizes Mount Fuji, while ponds, bridges, and teahouses evoke the spirit of Japan’s most famous travel route.
Walking through Suizenji felt like stepping into a living painting—every angle carefully designed, every feature layered with meaning. It was beautiful, though the blazing sun made it difficult to fully linger and soak in the serenity. Still, it was a lovely reminder of how gardens in Japan often blend history, art, and nature.
The Heart of the City
Next, we wandered through Kumamoto’s downtown shopping arcades. Bustling but not overwhelming, they were lined with shops, cafés, and plenty of food. We treated ourselves to pastries from a small bakery we stumbled upon—an indulgence that balanced out the ramen earlier.
Horse sashimi restaurants were everywhere, a clear sign of Kumamoto pride. While we didn’t try it, it was interesting to see how deeply it’s woven into the local food culture.
Kumamoto Castle – Symbol of Resilience
We made our way toward Kumamoto Castle (熊本城), one of Japan’s most impressive castles. Originally built in 1607 by Kato Kiyomasa, a legendary warlord and castle architect, it became renowned for its massive stone walls, wooden keeps, and clever defensive features.
Sadly, the castle suffered significant damage in the 2016 Kumamoto earthquake, and restoration is still ongoing. By the time we arrived, it was almost closing, so we didn’t go inside. Instead, we circled the perimeter, admiring the towering walls and restored turrets. Even from outside, Kumamoto Castle felt imposing—a symbol of both the city’s feudal strength and its modern resilience.
Wrapping Up the Day
By the end of the day, I can’t even recall exactly what we had for dinner—perhaps the heat, or maybe Kumamoto simply left a lighter footprint compared to other stops. Still, the city offered more than I expected: a glimpse of history at Suizenji Garden, the enduring presence of Kumamoto Castle, and the fun of discovering food (and manhole cards!) along the way.
It might not have been the highlight of the trip, but Kumamoto turned out to be a worthwhile and balanced stop between Kagoshima and the mountain routes ahead.
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.
👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
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