28 May 2025
Riding the Rails Above the Clouds: A Journey on Takachiho’s Amaterasu Railway
Leaving Kumamoto in the morning, we drove toward Takachiho Gorge, a place I had longed to visit since our Kyushu trip two years ago. Back then, we chose Beppu, Mount Aso, and Yufuin instead—it was impossible to squeeze in both Takachiho and Kurokawa Onsen. This time, I was determined to make it happen.
Our first stop was the Takachiho Amaterasu Railway (高千穂あまてらす鉄道), a tiny sightseeing train operated on the tracks of a former local railway that was damaged by a typhoon in 2005. Instead of shutting down entirely, the community revived a short section as a tourist attraction.
There’s something truly magical about a train that feels like it’s flying. That was my overwhelming thought as I stood on the open-air platform of the Takachiho Amaterasu Railway, the wind whipping through my hair and nothing but 105 meters of empty air between me and the valley floor below.
What makes this railway truly unique? It runs on bio-diesel fuel recycled from leftover tonkotsu ramen oil. As we chugged along, a subtle, savoury aroma lingered in the air—a whimsical hint that made the journey even more memorable. It’s eco-friendly, innovative, and so uniquely Japanese.
The train itself is open-air, colorful, and surprisingly popular with local tourists. The highlight? Crossing Japan’s highest railway bridge at 105 meters. The ride passes lush greenery, and when entering a tunnel, the staff light it up with playful disco lights. At one stop, they even released bubbles into the air. It all felt childlike and innocent—almost like something out of a Studio Ghibli film. For a moment, I forgot I wasn’t a kid anymore.
Guide for Amaterasu Railway:
- Duration: ~1 hour
- Fee: ¥1,800 per adult
- Access: ~2-hour drive from Miyazaki Station
- Best Time to Visit: Autumn for misty mornings and vibrant colors.
Takachiho Gorge – A Wish Fulfilled
Afterward, we made our way to Takachiho Gorge (高千穂峡), one of Kyushu’s most photographed natural spots. The gorge was formed by lava from Mount Aso, which cooled into dramatic cliffs of columnar basalt. Flowing through is the Gokase River, with the elegant Manai Falls (真名井の滝) cascading 17 meters into the gorge.
Because parking near the gorge is notoriously difficult, we left the car by Takachiho Shrine, which itself is steeped in Shinto mythology. Legend says this is where the sun goddess Amaterasu hid herself in a cave, plunging the world into darkness, until she was coaxed out—one of Japan’s most famous myths.
The walk from the shrine to the gorge was longer than expected, along a narrow roadside where cars occasionally passed us. Not dangerous, but tiring.
At the gorge, we skipped the rowboat rental (probably the best way to see Manai Falls up close) and instead walked along the pathway above. The view was undeniably beautiful—the turquoise river winding through sheer cliffs—but perhaps a little less overwhelming than I imagined. Maybe it was the crowds, or maybe because we didn’t get on the water. Still, it was a wish fulfilled, and I was happy to finally stand here.
Scenic Drive to Kurokawa
From Takachiho, we began the drive to Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉). The route passed through the sweeping grasslands of the Aso region, with wide-open skies and rolling hills. This was the kind of scenery that first made me fall in love with driving in Kyushu—simple, natural beauty that makes you slow down and breathe deeper.
We arrived slightly before check-in, but our hostess kindly welcomed us early. I had chosen Okyakuya (御客屋), one of the oldest onsen ryokan in Kurokawa, dating back more than 300 years. With its long history, riverside location, and atmospheric wooden buildings, it felt like stepping back in time. Conveniently, it was near the entrance of town too—an advantage when we saw cars getting stuck on the one-way street.
Kurokawa Onsen – A Step Back in Time
Kurokawa Onsen is a compact town—just a couple of streets—but lively compared to smaller hot spring villages like Yunomine. It’s one of Japan’s most famous onsen towns, with dozens of ryokan connected by the onsen-hopping pass (入湯手形) that lets visitors try different baths. We didn’t do a full onsen tour, but simply enjoyed wandering the narrow lanes, browsing souvenir shops, and even buying stamps for postcards we wanted to send.
The stamp-buying turned into its own mini-adventure. I wanted a specific value for international postcards, but the shopkeeper looked flustered when he didn’t have the exact amount. With my limited Japanese and his patient confusion, we eventually figured out I could combine a ¥40 and ¥50 stamp instead of a single ¥90 one. A small exchange, but it left me smiling—one of those everyday travel moments that becomes a fond memory.
Back at Okyakuya, we opened the windows to the river, letting the cool mountain breeze and the steady rush of water fill the room. Dinner was a beautifully prepared kaiseki meal—seemingly simple, but delicate and deeply flavorful.
Later that night, we put on yukata and wooden geta sandals for a stroll. I had read that in Kurokawa, guests often walk the town at night carrying paper lanterns, recreating an old-time atmosphere. Maybe it was the wrong season, or just a quiet evening, because the streets were nearly empty. Still, I clacked along the cobblestones, sleeves swaying, and counted it as part of the experience. Only when we returned did I notice that Okyakuya even provided small lanterns for night walks—something for next time.
Before leaving, we sent off our postcards from town, a simple gesture tying the day together.
A Day Well Spent
This day felt full—playful, scenic, and soothing. From the whimsical railway to the myth-laden gorge, from the vast fields of Aso to the timeless quiet of Kurokawa Onsen and the historic charm of Okyakuya, it was exactly the kind of day I hoped to find in Kyushu.
Closing the Day – Toward Fukuoka
The next morning, after one last soak and a hearty breakfast at Okyakuya, we packed up and said goodbye to Kurokawa. The road took us north toward Fukuoka, where city lights and urban energy awaited after days of mountains, rivers, and hot springs. The contrast between the quiet onsen town and bustling Fukuoka felt like the perfect rhythm to end this stretch of the journey.
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.
👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
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