29 – 31 May 2025
Leaving Kurokawa Onsen wasn’t easy. One last soak in the hot spring, one last delicious breakfast at the ryokan, and we were back on the road with slightly heavier hearts (and slightly heavier luggage). Destination: Fukuoka.
Pit Stop in Yufuin
We made a quick detour to Yufuin. The drizzle didn’t exactly help the mood—it made everything look a little grey, and walking around wasn’t quite as fun as last time. Still, the town has its charm. If anything, it feels a bit more commercial compared to other onsen towns, but that just means more things to see (and more snacks to eat).
And snack, we did. Pudding, cheesecake, beef croquette, beef sushi, and a matcha latte. The matcha latte was the clear winner—it hit that perfect balance of creamy and earthy. A tiny rain-soaked feast, and then we were off again.
Back in Fukuoka
Coming back to Fukuoka for a second time was… surprisingly relaxing. The first visit is always about cramming in all the “must-sees,” but the second? You can just wander, rediscover, and let the city unfold at its own pace.
We spent our short stay collecting more manhole cards (by now it had become a running joke and ritual), buying sweets, and wandering shopping arcades. This was our shopping spree chapter: I picked up second-hand comics, my companion grabbed a stack of old books, and we did the “typical Asian tourist” checklist—ramen, eel rice, clothes shopping, and a pharmacy run for beauty products.
The Lucky Dinner
Our last night in Japan called for something special, though at first we weren’t aiming high. We just wanted a place close to our hotel 居酒屋 酒日和 where we wouldn’t have to think too hard. I found a tiny shop online—only eight seats, no reservations—and half expected to be turned away.
Instead, we got lucky. Two people were ahead of us, but we managed to sit down. Inside, there was only one person—the owner—running the whole show. He cooked, served, and somehow managed a menu that was more varied than some bigger places we’d eaten at.
From the appetizers to the skewers, everything was spot-on. No fancy plating, no gimmicks—just really good food. It felt like stumbling into a hidden treasure, the kind of meal that quietly becomes one of the highlights of a trip. A perfect, low-key finale.
Goodbye, Kyushu
The next morning came too quickly. Our flight was early, our luggage ridiculously heavy (seriously, I don’t know how we managed to close the bags), but we made it.
Looking back, 38 days in Japan feels like both a blur and a lifetime. There were moments of pure joy, a few mistakes, plenty of laughs, and more than a few tired feet. Some places deserved longer, some days could have been planned better, but in the end—it was all part of the adventure.
And that last little meal in Fukuoka? The perfect send-off.
👉 A complete 38-day Japan itinerary, including Nakasendo walking, Kumano Kodo hiking, Shimanami Kaido cycling, and a Kyushu road trip.
👉 Guide and tips for collecting Manhole Cards across Japan — click here to read more.
👉 Don’t miss Japan’s postcard-sending experience — read the full guide here.
👉 10 standout food experiences worth seeking out – Japan Foodie Map: My Top 10 Meals Across Japan
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