Évora, Portugal – December 22, 2025
Sometimes the best travel days aren’t about ticking off perfect itinerary points, but about the slow, honest discovery of a new place. After ten non-stop days exploring Europe, Évora, with its quiet, sun-baked walls, was the perfect prescription. This UNESCO city is often seen as a quick stop, but spending a full, slow day here was the real travel hack.
The Journey: The CP Train, A €7.50 Ride, and My Passport Fiasco
Our trip began with a smooth, uneventful train ride from Lisboa Santa Apolónia (switching at Lisboa Oriente) straight to Évora for around €7.50—a great deal if booked early. I listened to some Fado and processed photos, but the ride had a few surprises.
A quick heads-up on the train (CP):
Passport Check is Real: While they mostly checked tickets, the conductor checked our passport as well. I quickly searched online and it seems to be a normal occurrence, but a soft copy was refused. I had to dig my physical ID out of a deep pocket, so be ready for that one!
Tech Check: They do have WiFi, but be warned: the train I was on didn’t have power sockets at all the seats. You might want to consider your seat choosing if you need to charge during the journey.
We arrived about 10 minutes late, but with Évora being the final stop, there was no confusion. Once there, we grabbed an Uber for about €4.00, which was an easy choice considering the bus is around €1.50 per person.
Unexpected Luck and Peacocks in the Old City
We reached our hotel, Hotel O Cante, way before the 4 PM check-in. Luckily, they had rooms available, upgraded us, and let us have the room right away. It was a blessing, truly—Évora was quite cold. After a short rest, we set out.
And lo and behold, our first foray led us mistakenly into the cemetery… We quickly backed out and entered the walled city. It felt like a quiet day, maybe because it was a weekday. We strolled through the Jardim Público de Évora (Public Garden), which was so peaceful to stroll around, and then came across the Ruínas Fingidas.
The unexpected star of the show was the swarm of peacocks and peahens roaming around freely near the Palácio de Dom Manuel (Royal Palace of Évora). The Palace itself was closed on Monday, so exploring the outer area with the peacocks was a wonderful consolation prize.
History That Chills: Capela dos Ossos
The main event, of course, was the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones). It costs €6.00 for a standard ticket. It was… interesting and impressive with all the human bones and skeletons. I saw many people taking pictures, but I tried my hardest to not take photos of the dead. It was really a sight to see, and I wanted to resist the temptation. The chapel is housed within the beautiful and free-to-visit Igreja de São Francisco de Évora, which was serene and peaceful with beautiful sunlight shining through the stained-glass roses. From the top of the chapel, we were able to see the Sé Catedral de Évora.
The Lunch & The Great Rice Debate at Gran Gula
For lunch, we found a small, unpretentious spot called Gran Gula. This wasn’t a guidebook recommendation; it was a simple, busy local place. And that’s where you find the real flavors. We had the classic Prato Diario and indulged in the Cabrito (kid). The whole meal, including an espresso and water, came to a reasonable 39.50€ for two people.
However, I have to be honest: I still think the Portuguese dish is too salty for my taste, but the shrimp curry was quite nice. This leads to my travel confession: many of my friends and family always find themselves craving Asian food (like rice and noodles) after a week or two in Europe. As a Malaysian, it was a treat when we were able to have some white rice to accompany our dish.
I know, risotto exists, but I can never truly accept al dente rice. Rice that still has that little bit of crunchiness inside is just… undercooked. It’s a completely different culinary experience that just doesn’t sit right with me. I wonder, when other regions come to Asia, would they crave Western food after a week or two?
Final Sights and A Quiet Exit
After lunch, we skipped the Sé Catedral de Évora (€4 entry) and headed straight for the Templo Romano de Évora (Roman Temple of Évora). The fun thing about it is walking all around it, catching different angles—especially the one where the top of the Cathedral peeks out over the columns. It’s a beautiful juxtaposition of Roman and medieval history.
We then walked along the streets to the Évora University buildings and the impressive Aqueduct. The streets were really quiet and empty, but the Aqueduct offers a beautiful photo spot.
In the end, we were tired and skipped the Praça do Giraldo, heading back to the hotel around 3 PM. Évora is a small town, maybe enough for a half-day trip, but it was a good stop for me, as I could get some rest after 10 days in Europe. The rain started in the evening, so we called it a day right on time.
Leave a Reply