Kumano Kodo Day 3: Wrong Turns, Raincoats, and Japan’s Biggest Torii

9 May 2025

We woke up on Day 3 of the Kumano Kodo with one thought: “Please, weather gods, hold off the rain.” The forecast promised showers by noon, so we ditched the hardcore 21.5 km trail and chose the gentler 7 km route from Hosshinmon Oji to Hongu Taisha. Call it wisdom… or survival.

Our luggage got sent ahead (pro tip: delivery services here are a bit hit-and-miss, so plan carefully), and we hopped on the bus. While waiting, we met some truly inspiring fellow pilgrims: two American ladies pushing 80, still ready to conquer the trail, and a young Malaysian hiker who accidentally took the bus in the wrong direction—then landed back with us. Clearly, the Kumano Kodo loves plot twists.

When we reached Hosshinmon Oji, I made my grand mistake. With way too much confidence, I led our group… in the wrong direction. And everyone followed me. Yep, I basically kidnapped a bunch of hikers—including the sweet elderly ladies with walking sticks—on a bonus detour. Luckily, an Eastern European couple saved us with a reality check, and we all sheepishly turned around. (I’m still cringing.)

A wooden signpost marking Hosshinmon-Oji on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, surrounded by forest in Japan.

A wooden trail signpost in a lush forest along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, pointing to Hosshinmon-oji and Mizunomi-oji.

Kumano Kodo Day 3: Wrong Turns, Raincoats, and Japan’s Biggest Torii | Japan

Then the rain came, right on schedule. Raincoats on, we trudged through mud, tea houses, and misty forest paths. At last, we reached Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine—the heart of the pilgrimage. The weather was gloomy, but the atmosphere was magical.

Traditional wooden Shinto shrine building in Shingu Japan surrounded by forest in the Kumano region

Kumano Kodo Day 3: Wrong Turns, Raincoats, and Japan’s Biggest Torii | Japan 1

Traditional Japanese Shinto shrine with ornate black-and-gold roof, surrounded by trees and approached by a stone pathway on a rainy day.

Stone path through a tall cedar forest along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail in Japan.

Inside the nearby visitor center, we stumbled upon something fascinating: the Dual Pilgrimage Certificate. Here’s the backstory:

The Kumano Kodo in Japan and the Camino de Santiago in Spain are the only two pilgrimage routes in the world recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage.
Pilgrims who complete both routes can receive a special “Dual Pilgrim” certificate, linking East and West, Shinto and Christian traditions, into a shared celebration of spiritual travel.
To qualify, you collect stamps (called nōkyōchō in Japan, credencial in Spain) along the way. Finish the Camino and at least one full route of the Kumano Kodo, and you’re officially a Dual Pilgrim.
The certificate itself feels like a badge of honor—proof you’ve walked two ancient routes separated by continents but connected by the human urge to journey with purpose.

Someday I’d love to do both, but for now, our stamp sheet was still missing a few marks, so no certificate yet.

The showstopper of the day, though? The Oyunohara Torii Gate—Japan’s largest. And when I say “largest,” I mean massive. Pictures don’t do it justice. Standing under it feels like being an ant at the gates of another world.

By 3pm, our energy was gone, and so were the food options around Hongu. We bussed to Yunomine Onsen, a tiny hot spring village where life moves at one-tenth speed. There are only a couple of restaurants, but the onsen baths are heaven. Our guesthouse bath was silky, mineral-rich, and exactly what our sore legs needed. After dinner, we called it a night.

Traditional Japanese dinner set with steamed pork vegetables rice and miso soup at Yunomine Onsen

Traditional wooden shelter with bench and signage near public bath at Yunomine Onsen in Wakayama Japan

Traditional map signboard of Yunomine Onsen village in Wakayama Japan under a wooden shelter on a rainy day

A misty riverside view of Yunomine Onsen in Japan, with hot spring steam rising among traditional wooden houses and flowing water.

Kumano Kodo Day 3: Wrong Turns, Raincoats, and Japan’s Biggest Torii | Japan 2

Day 3 had it all—rain, wrong turns, chance encounters, UNESCO heritage, and a giant torii. Messy, funny, tiring, but unforgettable. Exactly what a pilgrimage should be.